Dar es Salaam – Haven of Peace
Dar es Salaam
The Great Escape to the pearl of East Coast
To most travellers, Dar-Es-Salaam is just a convenient port of call on the way to more exotic destinations of Zanzibar, the game parks, Pemba or Mafia Islands. This is a great pity, because “Dar”, as it is affectionately called by aficionados of the city, is a fascinating rabbit warren of a tropical port, often surprising the unwary wanderer with scenes of breathtaking beauty. While Dodoma has been (somewhat absurdly) appointed as the new capital of Tanzania, Dar is the real capital, a hustling, bustling seaport that straddles some of the most important sea routes on earth.
Be warned though, like all seaports, it has its dangers. You are strongly advised not to wander around the city at night in small groups, particularly around the port and on the beaches north of the city around Kunduchi. And never exchange money on the streets with the touts who offer you “best rates in town”. They will either be rip-off artists who cleverly pad a wad of shillings with blank paper, or undercover policemen who will give you a warning, but keep your dollars. The Tanzanian shilling is, in any case, a regulated currency, and the black market will yield scant rewards.
Life in Dar es Salaam revolves around the huge harbour, with the business district fanning out from here in a series of fascinating side and main streets. There is something irresistible about whiling away a few hours sitting at the water’s edge, watching dhows, as traditionally rigged as they have been for centuries, slipping under the bows of huge cruise liners and cargo ships as they skilfully navigate the waters of the port. On the northern arm of the harbour is Kivukoni Front, with its bustling fish market, where every morning at dawn the dhows sail in to offload the night’s catch, and yelling fishwives compete with each other for the best of the catch.
The city itself is an eclectic mix of Swahili, German, Asian and British architecture, reflecting its colonial past and more recent history. It is a relatively new city – Sultan Majid bin Said, then the sultan of Zanzibar, saw the potential of Dar as a deepwater port because of its strategic position at the centre of the East African coast. In 1866, he began work on his palace, built of coral blocks hewn on Changuu Island off Zanzibar. But he died before its completion and the palace fell into ruin – but not before he gave the tiny port its name – “Haven of Peace”.
Eleven years later, the German colonialists revived the plan and seized Dar from its Arab rulers, fighting off an uprising by the Bushiri local tribe. The Teutonic order they imposed on the chaotic little port is reflected today in the neatly laid out grid patterns of streets fanning out around the port, and in several grand edifices scattered around the waterfront, most notably the German Hospital, the Lutheran Church and St Joseph’s Cathedral. Other places worth a visit in the city centre include the botanical gardens, and the adjacent National Museum, where archaeology buffs can see the skull of “Nutcracker Man” (see history), antique tribal artefacts and some fascinating World War One memorabilia.
Wandering the streets of Dar is nowhere more rewarding than in the Asian business district, along India Street and the intersecting Indira Ghandi Street. Here the flavours and smells are of a little Bombay, and if there’s anything you need to buy for your holiday, this is where you’ll find it. In this concentrated section of the city, you’ll find some of the best restaurants in East Africa, notably on Jamhuri, Mkunguni, Zanaki and Kisutu Streets. Further afield, take a taxi or walk up Ohio Street to where it becomes Upanga Road near the Gymkhana Club and look out for the distinctive Makuti-palm roofed building that houses Nyumba ya Saana, the House of Art. Begun in 1972 by an American nun, the co-operative supports nearly 200 young artists, with work ranging from batiks through carvings, oil paintings, pottery, weaving and clothing.
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We will negotiate the hotel rates depending on the number of people and season, apart from the displayed rack rates which most of the times client find it expensive. Contact us to get extras! which includes more than accommodation!.
Attractions in Dar es Salaam
National Museum. The national museum mainly shows photos and exhibitions on the development of human nature.
Makumbusho Village Museum. All of the houses within the village were constructed in accordance with the types of houses built by various ethnic groups throughout Tanzania. Ngoma dance shows are held from 2-6 PM on certain days. Buses to Makumbusho depart from the main post office, near the Askari Monument.
Askari Monument.
Zoological Gardens. Twenty-one kilometers southeast of the Kigamboni ferry. Admission US$20.
Azania Front Lutheran Church.
Kigamboni also known as “South Beach”, is situated across the channel from the Zanzibar ferry. You can get to the other side by ferry, not the same as for Zanzibar. The ferry station is north of the Zanzibar ferry past the Kilimanjaro Kempinski Hotel near the main fish market. You walk onto the ferry which costs 100Tsh. The crossing takes about 5 minutes. Photography is officially prohibited on the ferry and at the ferry terminals, so be discreet. Once across, you can hire a taxi to take you to the beaches, most of which are accessed through the various hotels along the coast. Public beaches have all been sold to developers. Hotels, such as the Sunrise, will charge a 5,000Tsh entry fee. 3,000TSh of which is returned to you in the form of food vouchers. Most hotels are about 5km from the ferry and you should be able to get there for 10,000 to 15,000Tsh depending on your negotiating skills. There are also daladalas which ply the road to the beaches.
Mbudya Island is a smaller island just north of Bongoyo. To visit, take a taxi or bajaji to the White Sands Hotel, located near Kunduchi. Two-way tickets can be purchased for 10,000 Tsh per person, with a minimum of 4 people per boat, and there is an additional 10,000 Tsh park fee when you get to the island. The popular side of the island has beaches, bandas, a small bar, and a food pavilion (though the menu is very limited). Beers go for about 3,000 Tsh. There is also a somewhat nicer, though more expensive, bar on the northern end of the beach. The rest of the island is mostly rough cliff face, which can make for some interesting hiking, though this is not advised if you don’t have good shoes and dependable balance (the rocks are very sharp and scrambling is sometimes required). The last boats back to White Sands leave between 4:30 and 5:00pm, though you can stay a bit longer if you are willing to take a smaller, overcrowded boat back to the Sea Breeze hotel, which is south of White Sands.
Bongoyo Island. Bongoyo is a small, uninhabited island just off the coast. The boat to Bongoyo leaves from Mashua Waterfront Bar & Grill at Slipway, the upscale set of shops and markets on the Msasani Peninsula, just north of Dar es Salaam. A taxi from the city center should run you 8,000 Tsh. The first boat leaves at 9:30AM, with others at 11:30AM, 1:30PM and 3:30PM, with a minimum of four people. The ferry cost 25,000Tsh which includes a round trip plus the US$10 for the marine park fee. The return ferries are at 10:30AM, 12:30PM, 2:30PM and the last one leaves around 4:30PM. There is a small restaurant on the island which serves a variety of foods and drinks (grilled prawns, fish and chips, egg and chips, beer etc.). Another option is to buy food at the Shrijee’s supermarket at Slipway. You can relax without having to worry about anyone stealing your things on Bongoyo. Take a hike around the island, snorkel in the clear waters to the southwest of the island (snorkeling gear may be rented on the island for 6,000Tsh per set per day) or just relax under a banda on the beach. Bandas are 5,000Tsh and a chair costs 1,500Tsh for the day. On the weekend, be sure to get on the first ferry if you want a banda, it gets very busy on Saturday and Sunday. When you come back, you can get ice cream or a meal at several of the Slipway restaurants and watch the sun set. You can also check out the Tinga Tinga paintings and other crafts at the market. Walk to the south (toward the Doubletree Hotel) from the main part of Slipways, past the boatyard, to find many cheaper market stalls.